Mukarimu Estate

Region: Meru, Embu
Producer: Charles Mutwiri
Cultivar: SL28 + SL34
Process: Natural
Elevation: 1500-1700 masl
Source: Comansa
Roast level: Light
Roasted for: Mod Spro + Filter

Tasting Notes: Blood orange, dark chocolate, wine

Mukarimu Coffee Estate, located in Meru County, Kenya, is managed by Charles Mutwiri, a farmer who has dedicated over five decades to coffee cultivation. The estate traces its roots back to the early 1970s, when Mutwiri inherited approximately 150 coffee trees from his father. Over time, he expanded production to more than 30 acres, cultivating predominantly SL28 and SL34 varieties − two of Kenya’s most recognized cultivars, valued for their cup quality and resilience under local conditions.

Despite starting from a modest base, Mutwiri invested consistently in both agronomic practices and infrastructure. He introduced organic farming methods, developed a nursery to support both his own and neighboring farmers’ planting needs, and eventually established an on-site processing facility. These steps allowed him greater control over quality and market access, differentiating Mukarimu Coffee Estate from many producers in the region.

Mutwiri’s career has not been without challenges. In the 1980s, during the collapse of global coffee prices, many producers in Meru abandoned coffee production due to low profitability. Mutwiri chose to remain in the sector, focusing on quality-driven practices and diversification to sustain his farm. He also encountered resistance early on when he decided to pursue coffee farming against family expectations of a career in teaching.

More recently, he has been vocal about structural issues in Kenya’s coffee sector, particularly regarding the auction system and the influence of marketing cartels. He has advocated for reforms such as minimum guaranteed prices and improved support for smallholder farmers, positioning himself as both a producer and an industry voice.

The lot in focus consists of SL28 and SL34, processed using the natural method. Selectively harvested ripe cherries are sun-dried on raised African beds, turned regularly to ensure even drying and reduce the risk of over-fermentation. Careful attention is given to maintaining proper airflow and moisture content until the cherries reach optimal stability for hulling.

The outcome is a cup profile that diverges from Kenya’s typical washed coffees, leaning towards richer fruit expression, heavier mouthfeel, and layered sweetness, while still retaining the clarity and structure that SL varieties are known for. This natural approach provides a complementary perspective to Kenya’s more common washed expressions, highlighting both the genetic potential of SL-cultivars and the role of processing innovation.

Moisture content: 9.8%
Weight loss: 11.7%