La Lúcuma

Region: San Ignacio, Cajamarca
Producer: Grimanés Morales Lizana & Marcelino Chinguel
Cultivar: Marshell
Process: Fully Washed
Elevation: 1750 masl

Roast level: Very light
Roasted for: Filter
Rec. rest: 21 days
Net weight: 150g

Tasting Notes: Florals, plum, cardamom, lemongrass

Fragrance/Aroma: Plum, soft yellow-white florals
Acidity: Rounded
Body: Black tea-like
Aftertaste: Long, refreshing, slight floral lift

At La Lúcuma in Peru’s Cajamarca region, the story of Marshell begins less as a deliberate breeding project and more as an accident that slowly revealed its significance over time. Owned and operated by Grimanés Morales Lizana, the farm became internationally recognised after its washed Marshell lot won the 2019 Cup of Excellence Peru 2019 with an extraordinary score of 92.28 points, one of the highest scores recorded in the competition’s history.

The variety itself was first noticed around 1997, when Lizana discovered several unusual coffee trees growing among the rest of her plantation. At the time, they appeared unremarkable − close enough to Bourbon in appearance that they drew little attention. Everything changed years later when an outbreak of “ojo de pollo,” a fungal disease common in humid coffee-producing regions, severely affected the farm. According to Lizana, these unidentified trees were among the only plants that survived intact. Their resilience, combined with the quality potential eventually revealed in the cup, convinced her to propagate the selection further, eventually naming it “Marshell” in honour of her father-in-law.

What makes Marshell particularly compelling is that its genetic lineage remains unresolved. Different sources alternately describe it as a Bourbon mutation, while official Cup of Excellence documentation lists the winning lot as Costa Rica 95. This ambiguity has led to ongoing speculation within specialty coffee circles. One theory suggests Marshell may be a spontaneous Bourbon-Ethiopian landrace hybrid, which could help explain its unusually layered aromatics and floral-fruited profile uncommon among more traditional Bourbon selections in Peru. Another possibility is that it shares lineage with Costa Rica 95 or related Sarchimor-derived material that naturalised or cross-pollinated over time, particularly given its notable disease resistance and structural vigour.

Regardless of taxonomy, Marshell has earned attention because of what it expresses in the cup. The winning 2019 lot was celebrated for its saturated sweetness, tropical fruit character, jasmine florality, creamy acidity, and unusually complex finish. International buyers and judges repeatedly noted how distinct it felt compared to more conventional Peruvian profiles. In many ways, Marshell reflects the broader evolution of Peruvian specialty coffee itself: rooted in traditional cultivation, yet increasingly defined by microclimates, isolated genetic discoveries, and producers willing to pursue quality through observation rather than convention.

At La Lúcuma, the washed process further sharpens this identity. Clean fermentation and careful drying preserve the variety’s clarity and aromatic precision, allowing Marshell’s unusual structure to remain fully visible in the cup. More than a curiosity, it has become a symbol of how exceptional coffees can emerge unexpectedly − from overlooked trees, local intuition, and years of persistence before the wider coffee world finally notices.

Sourced from: 品力非
We paid: S$28.28/kg
Roasted cost: S$47.40/kg

Moisture content: 10.5%
Weight loss: 11.5%
Agtron: W80.5 / G122.0 / △41.5